Winter Vacation

Mitch and his mother came to visit and travel with me for the past two weeks. I could have made some really great blog posts each day I was with them, but I was too busy having fun and actually living my life! Now Mitch has left, and I am back to my little French town, and so I have nothing better to do than stare at my computer and wish I could use it as a human transporter to take me home. I am not really living, it's more like surviving and getting through while trying to live in a cyber-world. But as everyone has reminded me, "only a month!" Actually, it is two months until I can return and try to commence living in a real way. Or I could use my paycheck to leave...

But anyway, enough of that, what I really want to do here is share an account of my fabulous vacation and some vacation photos:

We started in Paris. It was rainy and cold. However, we did ride up to the top of the Eiffel Tower! That was a first for me. I learned Mitch is afraid of heights. I was wondering why he wasn't pretending he would throw me off or something--it was because he felt as wary as I did about being that high up. :) Another highlight was the Louvre--it still hasn't gotten old for me. Well, it is the largest museum in the world after all.

Mitch at the Trevi Fountain

Colosseum

On Tuesday, we flew to Rome, to spend a week in Italy. We had a lot of good coffee, bad pastries (compared to the French), delicious pizza, and things with eggplant and zucchini. We did the typical Roman tourist things, like the Trevi fountain, Piazza Navona, the Spanish Steps, the Pantheon, the Colesseum & Roman forums. We did some Italian shopping. We took a tour bus to Naples and Pompeii. We went to Sunday mass at St. Peter's Basilica. We also saw some great Christian historic sights like San Clemente, St. Cecilia in Trastevere, the Catacombs of St. Callixtus and Quo Vadis on the Via Appia Antica, St. John Lateran, and St. Mary Major. It was really awesome to see all of those things-- Rome is an impressive city, and our time there was very enjoyable.

On the tour bus -- we passed the Abbey of Monte Cassino where the Benedictine rule was started

Naples

In Naples, in front of the "Egg" Castle - the isle of Capri is back behind us somewhere too.

In Pompeii with Mt. Vesuvius behind us

In front of St. Peter's, Vatican City

Interior of St Cecilia's in Trastevere, Rome - sculpture by Maderno, beautiful altar thing and mosaic!

I was so sad as we flew back...it meant a return to France and it meant the time with Mitch & his mom was quickly coming to a close. But before the end, Mitch and I left to visit Lyon and have my birthday there. I really enjoyed Lyon! It was sunshiny and bright, people were friendly, and the food was spectacular. I loved having my vacation and loved being with my best friend and amazing boyfriend.

In Lyon, with Fourvière Hill (the "hill of prayer") behind me - do you see the Basilica on the hilltop? 

Facade of the Basilica on Fourvière

Birthday dinner in Lyon at "Le Nef des Fous" 

A view of Lyon at night: looking up at St. John Cathedral, the Fourvière Hill with basilica, and the "metallic tower."

Yesterday morning, I said goodbye to Mitch and his mom at the airport. I knew I couldn't leave without saying goodbye to my host family (and getting the rest of my stuff), so I journeyed back to Mourmelon.

Bloops

I may have forgotten the purpose of this blog. Of course, it's a record of my experience, and that record includes how I'm feeling...but it's also supposed to record all the things I'm learning and seeing and experiencing here, that are different from home, as well as share these experiences with all of you. And there are so many things I've seen and tasted and heard...that I haven't recorded at all. Oh no! If I don't keep this record, how am I going to remember it all? It will all fade away once I leave...I need to take more photos and write more! It will make me feel more productive too. So look forward to some more posts!

Currently eating: "Ossau Iraty Rocabret," AOC (Appelation d'Origine Protégée)

Something I don't want to forget: S (the 14-year-old) and how she talks to me and has reached out to me so many times. How could I ever forget how excited I was when, after a month or more here, I finally was able to understand a majority of her discourse (on corrupt politicians and Asian governments, on French high schools and on going to a Catholic school, or music or...who knows what's next!). Then, I could begin participating by giving feedback-something that never fails to make me feel proud of myself. I am so thankful that S is, firstly, an interesting and very intelligent person, and secondly, a high-schooler who's actually interested in talking to me. Earlier this week, she dug around and found L'Encyclopédie de Fromage in order that I might educate myself on French cheeses. Last night, she saw my iPod nano and asked to look through it (Apple products are more expensive in Europe, and everyone thinks they're cool, and thinks I'm rich because I have iPods and a MacBook), and reciprocated by guiding me through the French artists she recommends for me.

Big Blessings

I am so blessed...and I shouldn't forget. I do have a friend in France! Helen Hunter came to visit me last weekend! It was a tough week, and I got through it remembering and thanking God that I'd have a true friend to chat with when Saturday rolled around. I also am blessed with a wonderful boyfriend who is coming with his mother to visit - in a week! I can't wait to spend time with both of them--as well as have two weeks respite from school and the little French town. I will be going south to have a week in Italia, and I'll be spending my birthday in the gastronomic capital of France with my cheri! Jealous? ;)

"Heureux qui comme Ulysse"

Heureux qui, comme Ulysse, a fait un beau voyage,
Ou comme cestuy-là qui conquit la toison,
Et puis est retourné, plein d'usage et raison,
Vivre entre ses parents le reste de son âge !

Quand reverrai-je, hélas, de mon petit village
Fumer la cheminée, et en quelle saison
Reverrai-je le clos de ma pauvre maison,
Qui m'est une province, et beaucoup davantage ?

Plus me plaît le séjour qu'ont bâti mes aïeux,
Que des palais Romains le front audacieux,
Plus que le marbre dur me plaît l'ardoise fine :

Plus mon Loir gaulois, que le Tibre latin,
Plus mon petit Liré, que le mont Palatin,
Et plus que l'air marin la doulceur angevine.


My own translation of Joachim du Bellay's poem (no promises to be unbiased, or perfectly literal, but I'll do my best):


Happy he, who like Odysseus, has completed a journey,
Or like that one who conquered the fleece,
And then has returned, full of knowledge gained,
to live with his kin for the rest of his life!


When will I see again, alas, from my little village
the smoke of the chimney, and in what season
will I again see the yard of my poor house,
which to me is a province, and so much more?


The abode built by my ancestors pleases me more
than the audacious brows of Roman palaces,
More pleasure slate gives me than hard marble :


More my Gallic Loire than the Tiber,
More my little Liré than the Palatine Hill,
And more than the sea air, the sweet softness of Anjou.


Of course, this guy's home was France, and more specifically Liré in the Anjou region, so that is not very applicable to me since it's France that I'm sick of. 


I feel as though I've been on vacation for way too long now (four months - but it feels like forever), and I'm burnt out. It doesn't help that I feel trapped behind a language barrier. I will never lose my American accent, and French will never come to me naturally. Some days, I am so tired of speaking like a complete fool. I just want to go home and be able to carry out day-to-day tasks on my own and feel like a semi-functional person. As I see the sights, I find it harder to be enthusiastic, even if they are magnificent (Eiffel Tower anyone? This used to be magical. Reims cathedral? It is truly a wonder, yet I'm no longer filled with awe). Of course I have gained a lot and learned a lot from my experiences here, but honestly, overall, the experience has been painful, and these months miserable. Please excuse the whine--but I've been trying to put a positive spin on it; and for the moment, I refuse.

Homemade Brownies

Now, I shall stop complaining about the people I miss. Let's not go into the people. Let's stay on the surface. Now, I shall complain about the foods I miss!

Mmmm!

Ooooh!

(Okay, I shouldn't miss the latte, because I can find plenty of coffee...but I used to spend so much time chilling out in coffee shops with those big paper cups, and there was always foam!)

However the lack of bagels & biscuits is REAL! And bacon--that is not the same here, and is never for breakfast!

But, I can't complain too much. There might be a couple of breakfast foods I miss, but I really do like the food here. It's so good. I will be even more of a food snob when I return...

Speaking of food, and missing things, the last time I baked anything was before I left for France. I've recently discovered a bunch of baking blogs (full of recipes, tips, and beautiful photos), and I've been itching to bake. Today was the day I began.

I decided that today was an appropriate day for me to make brownies, reminding me of home, and childhood, and, most of all, of Mom. 

I worked myself up to trying out the kitchen with these new & untested pots, pans, ovens, and measuring systems. Yes, I used the metric system. I weighed my ingredients instead of using measuring cups. À la française. 

It was a success. Christine hadn't planned a dessert; and when he learnt a kind of cake would result, F willingly went in search of eggs. When the batter was in the pan, the bowl & wooden spoon were shared by K & F (& others?) who'd been waiting, watching, silently lurking beyond the kitchen door. It made me happy to have someone(s) eager to lick the spoon...the way it should be! 

And now the brownies are all gone (and I didn't take any pictures). With such a full house, one pan is eaten in a flash! (No one even had the chance to be very gluttonous!) They were shared, they were enjoyed, and this went well. I am pleased and filled.

Christmas and the end of 2010

Hello, loyal fans! I know you have been missing me. ;) I have just been surviving the end of the holidays and the return to school (in French, la rentrée), and I have been too lazy - ahem, busy - too busy to write or take photos...sorry.

I left off at Christmas. We had Christmas with my host family, and it was a full house! It was cold and snowy outside, but very alive inside. All of the children (which totals 7!) came home, bringing along a tiny son and a special friend from La Guyane, and of course there were us two American sisters crashing the party as well. My fun-loving host family welcomed Lizzy with a French meal--escargots, pâté, and frog legs! Lizzy did not live up to the picky eater I made her out to be, and was very adventurously eager to try everything. It was a great start to the stay in Mourmelon-le-Grand. We had a lot of very good and very French food.

On Christmas Eve, Lizzy and I went to mass. After mass we came back to the family and had the traditional Réveillon dinner, starting with the "Apéro" of champagne with finger sandwiches of foie gras and smoked salmon, continuing with a meal of seafood and roast ostrich. On Christmas morning, we opened presents, each in their turn, and finally had fresh croissants for breakfast, fetched from the bakery by the middle son in his Christmas finery (a Sponge Bob Squarepants costume! Haha). It was a joyful day, the little girls were excited, everyone was enjoying themselves. I even got to try my first bûche de Noël, a traditional French Christmas log cake that I've been waiting for ever since I learned of it in French class! :) 


I had much to be grateful for. But much was missing. In a home (almost in a country?) with no religion, I was sad to witness a lack of the actual meaning of Christmas: the birth of the savior, the God-made-man. It seemed odd to me, like there was no Christmas this year. Sure, the holiday involves family, food, presents... but I missed singing Christmas carols, I missed mass in English, I missed being with family where the emphasis is on the religious holiday. Sure, we went to the the vigil mass, but as we walked home in the coldest wind and sleet, I knew I should be grateful and joyful, especially on Christmas, but I was just heartbroken and angry to be there. I did pick up three "santons" (manger scene figurines traditionally made in the South of France) while in Paris, and setting up a little manger scene was consoling--at least that felt like Christmas to me. Lizzy helped me make gold "straw" and I put the baby Jesus into the crib later that night. 

The day after Christmas, we met Emma in Reims! It was still snowy and the trains were off, so Alain very charitably drove us to the train station and even had a coffee with us there, before leaving us to wait for Emma. (A caring French host family really is a blessing and comes in handy!) We were so relieved and happy to see that Emma made it there safely! The three of us left our things in the hotel, went to mass, and went out to dinner. The next day we spent seeing the highlights of Reims: the great cathedral and the champagne cellars (we toured the house of Pommery). 


Then, off to Paris again! We had museums to see: Musée Rodin (a favorite, although it's better when the gardens are open and blooming), the Louvre (my fifth visit, I'm working on my tour guide skills now), the Musée d'Orsay (finally, I got to go back and finish seeing this lovely museum!), the Musée des Arts Décoratifs (interior design items - and it had a fashion section--really cool! and perfect for Lizzy and Emma), even a (tiny) Musée de Parfum. Lizzy departed Paris, tired but full of inspiration for her new year (I hope)! I was so sad to see her go, but at least I wasn't going back to an empty hotel room--Emma stayed, and we continued our Parisian adventures for New Year's Eve (and...there were no fireworks, how disappointing). 2011 began, we made it back to Mourmelon for Epiphany, and then, la rentrée.

Vacances de Noël

After my Parisian adventure, I was sick and felt horrible for two weeks, hence my lapse in blog posts. Then, vacation came. Everyone at school was in good spirits, sharing a Café de Noël with all kinds of goodies brought from home. I was thankful not to teach any more classes for a while, too! I felt worn out, and my body was certainly ready for a rest.

I rode into Paris Saturday and I saw the biggest snowflakes I've ever seen while walking the Champs-Élysées! The next morning, I met Lizzy at the airport. It was very nice to have my sister here with me, speaking English and bringing news (and gifts!) from home. And, Paris is Paris--lovely. Upon Lizzy's arrival the fields and forests were topped with white snow, so Christmas-y and pretty.

But then on the city sidewalks, the snow turned into disgusting greenish icy slush. It seeped into my boots and through my socks. I remained sick, and began to feel like I was hearing everything through a fog...a wall of sinus congestion keeping me from hearing & understanding both English and French! I noted a few select phrases I wish I'd never had to learn in French, like "toujours enrhumé" (still congested/suffering from a cold), and "solde" (apparently this means the "balance" of my bank account, not a deposit...how disappointing). My stress about planning the vacation continued for a few days, and I wondered if I would ever stop worrying about the next few weeks of finding things to do (and paying for them) with my visitors; and for good measure, whether I would ever get over my cold!

Lizzy took my grouchiness and grinch-like spirits well (she's probably used to me by now, poor thing). Of course we still managed some fun in Paris and we had some very special experiences.

A big Christmas tree in front of Notre-Dame of Paris!

After mass at Notre-Dame, I brought jet-lagged Lizzy along for tea with one of my French professors. She was a wonderful hostess and tour guide--she showed us the area of La Défense, where her apartment is located. It's a very unique modern suburb of Paris and an area I'd never seen. It's name comes from the Franco-Prussian war in 1870, this is where the French stopped the Prussians from invading Paris. Interestingly, there is no traffic...because it's underground! Huge pipe structures (or rather, sculptures) let the exhaust escape up and away from the people walking the sidewalks. The grand Arche de la Défense shadows the Arc de Triomphe. This cubic arch is large enough to fit Notre-Dame of Paris, bell-towers and all, underneath it.

We found a nice-looking restaurant on the way to our hotel and had dinner there, remembering to celebrate Lizzy's half-birthday and Mitch's birthday. Lizzy seemed surprised that she could order a glass of wine without anyone carding her! It was good to catch up and share a tasty dinner and dessert.

We'd been told not to miss the department store window-displays for Christmas, so we checked out all three major Parisian department stores: Galeries Lafayettes, Printemps, and Bon Marché. We went to Trocadero for Lizzy's first view of the Eiffel Tower, and for the Christmas market with ice-skating! We went to the Jardin de Luxembourg to see the frozen gardens, the palace where the French Senate now meets, and...a puppet show with traditional French marionettes, starring the famous main character called "Guignol." It was fun, if loud--the children are encouraged to shout answers and advice to the puppets!

One of the Christmas markets in Paris, with a prime location

The place to see the marionette show :)

We toured the Catacombs and went to Montmartre to see the Sacré-Coeur Basilica and the view of Paris from the hilltop. We visited the Christmas market on the Champs-Élysées. Knowing we would return to Paris after Christmas to meet Emma, we saved the museums to do then with her!